MATSUSE - MATSUNOTSUKASA JUNMAI

Brewery Information

In Ryuo, a farming area in Shiga Prefecture, east of Lake Biwa, Matsuse Shuzo has been brewing sake since 1860. Under the name Matsunotsukasa, the brewery creates sakes defined by freshness, rice flavour and a refined balance. Its connection to the surrounding landscape is the starting point: the rice, the water and the people working with them together shape the brewery’s character.

Tōji Keizo Ishida joined Matsuse Shuzo in 2001 and became head brewer in 2010. He is now in his 26th brewing season at the brewery. During our visit, we were particularly impressed by his explanation of the soil and underlying bedrock. He showed us the importance of looking beyond the rice variety alone. His philosophy of terroir connects the geology, water and rice-growing conditions with the work of the farmers and the choices made in the brewery. It made Matsunotsukasa’s connection to the landscape of Ryuo tangible for us.

Matsunotsukasa Junmai

This Junmai is the brewery’s classic table sake: approachable, full-flavoured and made to be enjoyed regularly. Brewed with Japanese rice polished until 65% of the original grain weight remains, it expresses the natural flavour of rice without becoming heavy.

The nose is understated, with gentle rice aromas. On the palate, mild rice sweetness and a rounded, full flavour meet Matsunotsukasa’s characteristic freshness. Its appeal lies in that balance: enough flavour to accompany food, with a soft mouthfeel that invites another sip.

This is a sake that truly comes into its own at the table. Its restrained aroma and rice-driven character leave room for the food, while its freshness keeps everything lively.

Rice and Relationships with Farmers

Matsuse Shuzo works with directly contracted rice growers and closely follows cultivation. The brewery polishes the rice itself, allowing its staff to carefully oversee this important stage too.

Ryuo’s landscape offers a variety of soils and growing conditions, from flat rice fields to plots at the foot of the mountains and alongside rivers. This attention to the origins of the rice runs throughout the brewery’s range.

Water from Underground

The brewing water is drawn from approximately 120 metres below ground. It comes from the underground flow of the Echigawa River, which originates in the Suzuka Mountains. Together with carefully selected rice, this water forms the foundation of the brewery’s recognisable style.

After the explanation during our visit, this water took on extra meaning for us: it belongs to the same landscape as the rice fields. The attention paid to soil, bedrock and water helps explain why provenance holds such an important place in the brewery’s philosophy.

Serving and Food Pairing

This Junmai can be enjoyed at a range of temperatures. Lightly chilled, freshness takes the lead; at room temperature or warmed, its rounded rice character becomes more apparent. Experiment with different drinking vessels too, from a thin glass to a shuwan or guinomi. Their shape, material and rim thickness can change your perception of aroma, texture and flavour.

Pairs beautifully with grilled fish, roast chicken and tempura, as well as mushroom pizza, a vegetable tart or pork with a light cream sauce.