NOGUCHI NAOHIKO SAKE INSTITUTE

Brewery information

In Kanagaso, between the mountains of Komatsu in Ishikawa, the life's work of an exceptional brewer gets a future. The Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute bears the name of Naohiko Noguchi, 93 years old and a living legend who has been dedicated to brewing sake for more than seventy years.

Born in 1932 in Noto, as the third generation of a tōji family, Noguchi began his training at the age of sixteen. As a young master brewer, he took the lead of production at Kikuhime. He grew up to become one of the four great masters of the Noto tōji tradition and earned the nickname “God of Sake Brewing”.

He built that reputation by continuing to research what makes sake special. Noguchi played an important role in the spread of ginjō sake and helped bring the traditional yamahai method back into the spotlight. His influence also lives on in the brewers who learned from him and today make their own sake.

His craftsmanship has been recognized multiple times: as a Contemporary Master Craftsman in 2006, with the Medal with Yellow Ribbon in 2008, and in 2026 as the first sake-tōji with the recognition “Living National Treasure” for ginjō brewing.

Remarkably, Noguchi himself is hardly a drinker. He has a poor tolerance for alcohol and primarily tastes it for work. It is precisely for this reason that the people who drink his sake are central to the experience. He sought them out, listened to their reactions, and utilized those experiences to further refine his brewing techniques. Not only did the evaluation by a jury determine the direction, but also the enjoyment at the table played a significant role in shaping the experience.

That attention to the drinker forms the human side of his technical mastery.

The institute was established in 2017 to research and pass on its knowledge, methods, and brewing philosophy. It is indeed a brewery, but the name Institute tells you why it exists: to not lose more than seventy years of experience. Techniques are documented, fermentations are monitored, and young brewers are trained. Its legacy takes shape by continuing to brew together.

Yamahai Gohyakumangoku 2018 Vintage brings together various parts of that life's work.

The base is Gohyakumangoku, a rice variety from Niigata that often yields a clear, crisp rice style. Noguchi uses that precision to build flavor depth: rice umami, vibrant acidity, and layers that unfold gradually.

At yamahai, the yeast starter produces its lactic acid through natural microbial processes. The method requires time and careful guidance and can give sake an extra structure, tanginess, and tension. It is a technique that Noguchi helped preserve and bring back to life.

This 2018 Vintage is also a namazake, an unpasteurized sake. Through controlled aging in the bottle, fruity, aromatic, and savory flavors come closer together. The sake gains more depth, while its juicy character remains intact.

In the glass, a light yellow color appears, followed by aromas of plum, peach, and orange peel. Ripe banana, nuts, and chocolate give the scent a richer base.

In the mouth, fruitcake, dried fruit, and dark chocolate come together with a round, lightly spiced texture. The rice flour gives it width; the juicy acids keep the whole thing in motion. The finish is long and layered, with flavors that invite you to continue tasting slowly.

Even lightly warmed, this sake allows it to be beautifully discovered. The hearty tones become more expressive and the round texture comes out stronger.

At the table, he pairs well with aged cheeses, mushrooms, curries, spiced preparations, creamy sauces, and fattier pieces of meat. Dried fruit, dark chocolate, and a spiced fruit cake also complement his aged character.